99 Up S80 V70 C70 Including XC Lock Cylinder

Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jul 25, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70 |

SOURCE: http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how_tos/miscellaneous_repairs_tips/replacing_cylinder_lock.html

Published on February 2, 2011 by Mr. Winkey

Tools Needed: Torx Paint Pen Picks & Sockets Bits Drill

This is a top level job and must be done with great care! If you do not feel comfortable or are not 100% sure of your skills I would highly recommend not attempting this job. Sometimes it is just better and more cost effective to pay a professional than to make a mess and have to pay one double!

Start by disconnecting the battery.
Remove the steering column covers with a 20mm torx driver.
Remove the ignition switch,wiper switch and turn signal switches all are 25mm torx.
Now remove the air bag module. You will need a long 30mm torx driver as shown below.

Unplug the module and lay it outside the vehicle with the back(metal part) laying flat on the ground.

Now remove the 18mm bolt securing the steering wheel. After the bolt is removed I paint mark the wheel to the column splines for alignment reference. Before you remove the wheel you must pin the air bag contact reel (I use a small phillips screwdriver) There is a small dimple behind the contact reel hole for proper alignment. If you accidentally release the contact reel the yellow tag attached to the wire gives specific instructions on how to re-align it. But we want to avoid this.

With the contact reel pinned you may now slide your steering wheel off.
The below picture pretty much shows all that is described here.

Now remove the torx screws securing the contact reel unplug and remove that as well. Keeping the pinning device(screwdriver intact)

There are numerous ways to seperate the 2 pieces of the lock cylinder, I prefer to drill them out and this is the method that I’m going to show. The below picture(a bit blurry) shows a pen(on the left) pointing to the one shear bolt that must be drilled out. You must then go to the other side and drill that one out as well. It makes no diffrence which side you start with they just both have to be removed. I put a small amount of grease on the 3/8″ drill bit to try and hold the metal shavings. I would recommend covering the dash and the floor as well to retain the metal shavings.

The picture below shows the LH shear bolt drilled through and the 2 pieces are seperated. Now I’m drilling the RH one.

Finish drilling through and remove the 2 pieces as shown. Notice the RH one is not completly drilled through but enough to bend it upward to clear the column.

With the old one out of the way wipe off any residual metal debris and install your new lock cylinder. The 2 bolts supplied are shear bolts as well(meaning the tops are meant to snap off when they are tightened) so care must be taken not to cross thread these. Position your lock cylinder and install your new shear bolts. I make both sides lightly snug then I go back and tighten them until the top of the shear bolt snaps off. The shear bolts are 40mm torx.

The below picture shows the new lock cylinder in place and now you are ready to reverse procedure and reassemble.

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