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DIY: 1998 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch & Cylinder Lock

Posted by OurVolvo.com on Aug 5, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70

By: cn90

SOURCE: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34472

Car is 1998 Volvo V70 with 106K miles.

– Symptoms: sometimes cannot crank the engine, after wiggling the key a few times, then I can start the engine. It was intermittent, then it became permanent.
– Key can turn to Position I and Position II but not Position III (crank).
– Initially I thought it was the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion to the LEFT of Steering Column), which was replaced but same symptoms! It turned out to be the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key).

ATT: If you replace the Ignition Tumbler Lock (where you insert the key), there is NO need to remove the Steering Wheel at all! Read on.

1. Igntition Switch (Electrical Portion is PN 9447804, $50 at Volvo dealer. Do not use aftermarket part).

2. Ignition Tumbler Assembly (where you insert the key, Volvo PN is 8626325). I bought it for $210 from (ordered Monday and got it by Fedex on Saturday, wow fast service!):
Don Snyder
Darrell Waltrip Volvo Subaru
615-599-6294 Direct
Tel. 1-800-679-6124
Fax 615-599-6253
Don.Snyder@HendrickAuto.com

3. Tools:
– Torx set
– “Trim” Hammer (this hammer is used for carpentry trim job) is useful in this tight space
– 1/32” Nail Set
– Flat Screwdriver.

FYI, 1998 and earlier models probably have no anti-theft chip in the key. I connected the Ignition Switch (Electrical Part on the LEFT of Steering Column) to the connector and use a flat screwdriver (in the location labeled “Slot”) to crank and the car starts right up.

4. Shear Bolts are supplied with new Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly. For those not familiar with Shear Bolts: these are used during assembly at factory, once the head on the Shear Bolt is tightened to a certain torque, the outer head snaps off, leaving a round inner head, making it difficult for thieves to remove. When you buy the Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly, the Shear Bolts are supplied with it.

– During re-installation, I simply tightened the Shear Bolts snug without snapping the head off just in case I want to remove them later.

5. Have a look at the first picture above to be familiar with the setup:
– The LEFT side of the Ignition Assembly is the Electrical Portion of the Ignition: it turns I, II and III (crank).
– The RIGHT side of the Ignition Assembly (where you insert the key) can only be turned with the proper key and has a cable to control so you cannot remove the key if the car is not in Park. The RIGHT side turns the LEFT side via a flat piece of steel, pretty much similar to your lock at home.

Procedures:

1. Disconnect Battery Ground Cable for safety reasons.

2. Use a flat screwdriver to lift off the rubber trim, then lift the Upper Cover close to SW upward (#1), then slide it toward you so it slides out of the hook (#2).
The Lower Cover is secured by three (3) Torx #25 bolts. When removing the Lower Cover, pay attention to the part around the Lighted Ring: tug the Lower Cover outward a bit so it clears the Lighted Ring then remove it.

3. Remove Turn Signal Stalk and Wiper Stalk: Each Stalk is held by two (2) Torx #25 bolts.

4. Now you can see the Shear Bolt round head. At factory, the force used to tighten the Shear Bolt was not much, so with the Nail Set you can “chisel” it out. Angle the Nail Set in such a way that it angles about 45 degrees and tap it with the “trim” Hammer Counter-Clockwise to remove the Shear Bolt.
This is why you do NOT need to remove the Steering Wheel when replacing the Ignition Tumbler Lock Assembly.

5. Use a flat screwdriver to gently disconnect the Connector to the Ignition Switch (left side of Steering Column).
Disconnect the three Torx Bolts holding the Horn/Air Bag Ring (aka “Clockspring”).
Once the Shear Bolts are removed, the Cylinder Lock Assembly will fall down, so support it with your knees.

6. Now disconnect the Lighted Ring connector then remove the Lighted Ring from the Assembly.

7. To remove the Parking Release Cable: squeeze both sides of the tabs and use a flat screwdriver to gently pry it out. But first use a Sharpie to mark the depth of insertion of this Parking Release Cable so you know how much to insert it to the new Assembly. I think the key needs to be in position II to insert this Parking Release Cable.

8. If you decide to keep your Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion), then remove it using Torx #20 key, then transfer it to the new Ignition Tumbler Assembly. Note there are a large and a small notch so it can only be aligned 1 way.
However, at 100K, I think it is better to replace both the Ignition Switch (Electrical Portion) and the Ignition Tumbler Assembly.

9. Re-assembly is straightforward, make sure the notch on the Ignition Tumbler Assembly lines up with the Steering Column hole before you tighten the Shear Bolts. Again, I did not snap the heads of the Shear Bolts, just finger-tight and snug.
Also make sure the Rubbers around the Turn Signal and Wiper Stalks fit properly on the Upper and Lower Covers.

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99 Up S80 V70 C70 Including XC Lock Cylinder

Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jul 25, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70

SOURCE: http://volvospeed.com/volvo_repairs_how_tos/miscellaneous_repairs_tips/replacing_cylinder_lock.html

Published on February 2, 2011 by Mr. Winkey

Tools Needed: Torx Paint Pen Picks & Sockets Bits Drill

This is a top level job and must be done with great care! If you do not feel comfortable or are not 100% sure of your skills I would highly recommend not attempting this job. Sometimes it is just better and more cost effective to pay a professional than to make a mess and have to pay one double!

Start by disconnecting the battery.
Remove the steering column covers with a 20mm torx driver.
Remove the ignition switch,wiper switch and turn signal switches all are 25mm torx.
Now remove the air bag module. You will need a long 30mm torx driver as shown below.

Unplug the module and lay it outside the vehicle with the back(metal part) laying flat on the ground.

Now remove the 18mm bolt securing the steering wheel. After the bolt is removed I paint mark the wheel to the column splines for alignment reference. Before you remove the wheel you must pin the air bag contact reel (I use a small phillips screwdriver) There is a small dimple behind the contact reel hole for proper alignment. If you accidentally release the contact reel the yellow tag attached to the wire gives specific instructions on how to re-align it. But we want to avoid this.

With the contact reel pinned you may now slide your steering wheel off.
The below picture pretty much shows all that is described here.

Now remove the torx screws securing the contact reel unplug and remove that as well. Keeping the pinning device(screwdriver intact)

There are numerous ways to seperate the 2 pieces of the lock cylinder, I prefer to drill them out and this is the method that I’m going to show. The below picture(a bit blurry) shows a pen(on the left) pointing to the one shear bolt that must be drilled out. You must then go to the other side and drill that one out as well. It makes no diffrence which side you start with they just both have to be removed. I put a small amount of grease on the 3/8″ drill bit to try and hold the metal shavings. I would recommend covering the dash and the floor as well to retain the metal shavings.

The picture below shows the LH shear bolt drilled through and the 2 pieces are seperated. Now I’m drilling the RH one.

Finish drilling through and remove the 2 pieces as shown. Notice the RH one is not completly drilled through but enough to bend it upward to clear the column.

With the old one out of the way wipe off any residual metal debris and install your new lock cylinder. The 2 bolts supplied are shear bolts as well(meaning the tops are meant to snap off when they are tightened) so care must be taken not to cross thread these. Position your lock cylinder and install your new shear bolts. I make both sides lightly snug then I go back and tighten them until the top of the shear bolt snaps off. The shear bolts are 40mm torx.

The below picture shows the new lock cylinder in place and now you are ready to reverse procedure and reassemble.

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1999 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch and/or Key Lock Cylinder Problem with Key Rotating Freely at 360 Degrees

Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jul 15, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70

A very special thanks goes to my friend Rob at http://www.volvotips.com/ who helped with priceless advice every step of the way.

BRIEF: While you may enjoy reading the full story of my searches for repair/replacement of my 1999 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch and/or Key Lock Cylinder Problem with Key Rotating Freely at 360 Degrees, it is more probable that you want to fix your car first. So, first things first in two easy and simple steps:

(1) Make sure the problem is NOT in the electric part called the ignition switch, which is attached with two screws on the LEFT side of the ignition assembly or steering wheel. See how here: 1999 Volvo V70 IGNITON SWITCH (Cost: around $60-$75).  

(2) If it is NOT the ignition switch, you will need to order the whole ignition assembly, which comes with the “coded” key ignition cylinder inserted into the bracket which attaches around the shaft behind your steering wheel. Don’t waste more time, find your VIN number and call to order Volvo part # 8626325 for $225 (+10S&H + Tax) from:

Don Snyder at Darrell Waltrip Volvo Subaru
615-599-6294 (direct) or
1-800-679-6124 (toll free) or
Don.Snyder@HendrickAuto.com

We ordered our part on Tuesday afternoon and received it promptly on Friday morning via FedEx.
Don’t forget to mention ourVolvo.com INTERNET SPECIAL. Now here’s the long story:

Recently, my ignition key on 1999 Volvo V70 started messing up. As the problem persisted for a week or so, the key began freely rotation at 360 degrees without ever catching and starting the car. With such symptoms you can have one or all of the following problems:

(1) Ignition switch, the electric part located on the left of your steering wheal has gone bad. See how to replace it yourself for around $60 or redneck-fix-it here.

(2) Ignition key lock (where your key goes in). This part is precut only by Volvo in Europe by your VIN number. See costs and repairs here:

(3) The metal guillotine, which locks your steering wheel or some other metal part within the ignition assembly, has broken. There’s no way for you to take it apart and fix it. There’s no way for you to take the ignition cylinder out of the assembly. There’s no way to order them separately. They have to be ordered together from Volvo and mounted as described here.

In some rare cases, you may be lucky and have all of the above. Anyway, if you have to change the ignition assembly, it’s recommended to change the ignition switch as well. Especially the older ones with the pin prongs sticking out get oxidized and just cleaning them is not always dependable.

Several tips to remember before you begin:

  1. If you don’t want to waste your time, just drill the two holding bolts out from the top. The top part of the bracket has no treads.
  2. It may be difficult to take the top part of the holding bracket without breaking the tiny clear plastic years of the air bag assembly. You can use your old top bracket as it is.
  3. When you try to put the cover back together, cut your wheal 90 degrees to the left and then the bottom cover will slide in place very easy.
  4. The wholes for the ignition switch have no treads. Just tighten the screws in and they will snug real good with the soft metal inside the wholes.
  5. And finally, if it ain’t broken don’t try to fix it!

Now, see how to fix (DIY) the Ignition Switch and replaced the Ignition Key Cylinder and Assembly on our 1999 Volvo V70? Use one of these helpful tutorials depending on your Volvo model. We’ve  made copies of them on our website in case they get lost in the forums:

Also a much necessary price quotes and dealer / part store review:

Volvo of Chattanooga
$99 initial diagnostics (if you can get your car towed to them)
$301 ignition cylinder
$1100 ignition column

Volvo of Knoxville (800) 346-8762
$200 ignition cylinder plus $356 labor

Nalley’s Volvo in Atlanta (800) 671-3174 had surprisingly reasonable prices and a very, very helpful part/service adviser, which no other Volvo dealership seemed to offer.

Dayer Volvo of Atlanta (888) 593-3772 gave a quote on parts and repair in the range of $700-900. When I asked for a bit more specific number I was told $840. Seriously? Guess when I’ll go there for a repair – like NEVER. Thumbs down plus BEWARE!

Taska Parts was also recommended on some forums as a cheaper alternative. They order from Volvo and quoted me $230 for the ignition cylinder but after calling and asking 3 times I was still not clear if I am getting just the key cylinder or the whole assembly.

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