Posted by OurVolvo.com on Aug 22, 2016 in 1999 Volvo V70
Remove bottom part of right side cargo panel (Side which your gas tank is on) and small section of flooring.
NOTE: You do not have to take the main large panel off. These panels are very fragile and sometimes do not go back on or break in the process.
Slightly pry open remaining side panel (part which is still attached) enough to reach hand behind panel. You will feel the metal frame of the car and wires.
Beware that behind the carpet cargo panel there will be another metal panel in which the locking mechanism will be behind.
There will be a wrapped cable with two wires which will be visible once you remove the panel. These are the wires which connect to the locking mechanism. Follow the cables with your hand to the end to locate the locking mechanism. Cables will be connected to a small box.
Once you have located the small box of the locking mechanism, take your finger and reach behind until you reach the trigger and then pull to unlock the gas tank.
Take off bottom flooring.
Take off small side carpet panel. There is a small black cap you remove where fingers are and then you slide downward.
This is the exact location of the gas tank trigger.
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Nov 20, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
First of all, special thanks to DanDan the VolvoMan who we were able to find 3rd row V70 seats through his eBay store. Via his website http://www.resultsautoparts.com, Dan is running a family business which started back in 1972. If you need a Volvo part (or any other car)DanDantheVolvoMan is your man for the job.
Now, there is a YouTube 10-part video seriesdone by a great Polish mechanic, but is quite hard to follow it while installing the seats. You can watch the videos for a reference if you’d like, but this work sheet may be much easier to follow while working.
A. First off, start with the back area:
(1) Remove the spare tire cover. You may later need to remove the spare tire and its plastic nest, so do it now while you are at it.
(2) Remove the two side covers by popping them off with the help of a big screw driver.
(3) Unscrew the two brackets (two screws each) supporting the rear hard cover.
(4) Slide out toward you the rear hard cover. Don’t try to lift it or pop it up. It is fixed by 2-3 brackets and easily slides out.
B. Now move to the rear seat area:
(1) Remove the rear seat arm rest covers. They easily pop out as you pull them out.
(2) Remove the two vents. They pop and slide out. The are not broken but factory precut so you can put the seat belt in them. Be careful that if you pry on them when cold they could break.
(3) Remove part of the door seal gasket to uncover the plastic side cover where the door closes.
(4) Then remove the plastic rectangle on the top where your seat belt will be attached and then the ceiling side plastic cover.
C. You are ready to install the seat belts:
(1) Start by unfolding some of the seat belt giving it enough slack so you can install it. If it is locked, you have to hold it straight and gently pull. It may take several pulls till you get hang of it.
(2) Fit the belt mechanism correctly on the frame and fix the bolt.
(3) Extend the belt to the ceiling and do the same with the belt hanger.
(4) You can now safely put back in place all plastic covers, the door seals and the rear seat arm rests.
D. Seat belt floor locks
(1) Fit the large T-shape metal frame in the provided hole to your left which is fixed with two bolts to the frame (one on your right side and on the bottom of the mechanism).
(2) You will need to mount the two brackets, which you removed in the beginning, to the back side of the backrest with the provided 3 small screws for each of them.
(3) You are now ready to slide the backrest piece into place.
(4) Once it is in position, raise it and mount the two lower brackets to the car frame. They may need to be pressed firmly and bent a little to fit just right over the two holes.
E. Last but not least:
(1) The small plastic lock may take most of your time, but it is important to tweak it just right so your 3rd row Volvo seat may securely lock when raised.
(2) You will need to cut just right through the vinyl seat cover after finding the small opening on your back right side of the seat just bellow the head rests.
(3) You will need two small ears on the bottom of your cut for the piece to fit just right.
(4) Once finished with the cutting, install the plastic piece starting by pressing first on the top and then on the bottom until it fits just right. Once in, slide it upward to snug and lock. If it does not lock your 3rd row seat will not be secure.
(5) Try if it works by raising your 3rd row seat. If installed properly, the lock sticks should lock securely and then easily release when the latch is pressed. If you run into the problem where the latch will not release properly you may need to cut a bigger hole.
F. You may also want to change the seat carpet covers if they are worn out.
(1) The one with the seat is attached with metal brackets to the hard cover and easily pops out when pulled firmly and then you have but a few screws to deal with while transferring the seats.
(2) The back rest, however, will need some modifications as the two head rests have to be attached to it, but only after you have cut through the wood in order to install the locking mechanism. Without it, your 3rd row seat will have nowhere to lock in order to stay in the sitting position.
The foremost and cheaper thing to do is check the electric part called the Ignition Switch. The ignition switch is attached with two screws on the LEFT side of the ignition assembly costs about $60 from either the store or the dealer (dealer probably will only bit around $10 more expensive but it will be a genuine part) and is recommended for replacement every 100,000 miles.
IMPORTANT: You can still start the car even if the switch or the ignition cylinder or something in the brackets is broken. Unscrew the ignition switch and with a key in the ignition, in POSITION II, insert a flat head screwdriver as shown on the picture below. Twist the screwdriver and the car will start.
The ignition switch comes in at least two versions in the newer models and with our luck came with both version in the 1999 V70 which could be determined by taking it OFF (not apart if you don’t want to break it) or by calling Volvo with your VIN number. The part is also available by BWD via Advanced Auto Parts and/or Autozone, if you don’t want to wait on the dealer. The part is NOT yet in their online catalogue, but it is found in the printed master catalog. 1999 Volvo with chassis starting from CH587537 take Part. No CS1054, while chassis up to CH587537 take Part. No CS1057.
I honestly to this day do not know which one goes on the Volvo with chassis No CH587537 and I do hope that as you are reading this you are realizing this is the chassis number of your Volvo. Anyhow, take the switch out and it will be obvious which one you need.
Finally, don’t try to fix this part, as there is not much to fix as you can see on the picture below. Just get a new one and replace it. I tried to fix mine when it was not broken and promptly broke it as a result. Volvo has done a really Mickey Mouse job on this one.
If you are seeing this part of your switch in photo below, you have done what you are NOT supposed to and opened the switch. It is very hard to get everything aligned back and re-shut. But of course curiosity kills the cat – but this is a $75.33 learning experience. Basically think, if you followed the previous directions and started the car with using a screwdriver, this part works fine.
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jul 15, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
A very special thanks goes to my friend Rob at http://www.volvotips.com/ who helped with priceless advice every step of the way.
BRIEF: While you may enjoy reading the full story of my searches for repair/replacement of my 1999 Volvo V70 Ignition Switch and/or Key Lock Cylinder Problem with Key Rotating Freely at 360 Degrees, it is more probable that you want to fix your car first. So, first things first in two easy and simple steps:
(1) Make sure the problem is NOT in the electric part called the ignition switch, which is attached with two screws on the LEFT side of the ignition assembly or steering wheel. See how here: 1999 Volvo V70 IGNITON SWITCH (Cost: around $60-$75).
(2) If it is NOT the ignition switch, you will need to order the whole ignition assembly, which comes with the “coded” key ignition cylinder inserted into the bracket which attaches around the shaft behind your steering wheel. Don’t waste more time, find your VIN number and call to order Volvo part # 8626325 for $225 (+10S&H + Tax) from:
Don Snyder at Darrell Waltrip Volvo Subaru
615-599-6294 (direct) or
1-800-679-6124 (toll free) or
Don.Snyder@HendrickAuto.com
We ordered our part on Tuesday afternoon and received it promptly on Friday morning via FedEx. Don’t forget to mention ourVolvo.com INTERNET SPECIAL. Now here’s the long story:
Recently, my ignition key on 1999 Volvo V70 started messing up. As the problem persisted for a week or so, the key began freely rotation at 360 degrees without ever catching and starting the car. With such symptoms you can have one or all of the following problems:
(1) Ignition switch, the electric part located on the left of your steering wheal has gone bad. See how to replace it yourself for around $60 or redneck-fix-it here.
(2) Ignition key lock (where your key goes in). This part is precut only by Volvo in Europe by your VIN number. See costs and repairs here:
(3) The metal guillotine, which locks your steering wheel or some other metal part within the ignition assembly, has broken. There’s no way for you to take it apart and fix it. There’s no way for you to take the ignition cylinder out of the assembly. There’s no way to order them separately. They have to be ordered together from Volvo and mounted as described here.
In some rare cases, you may be lucky and have all of the above. Anyway, if you have to change the ignition assembly, it’s recommended to change the ignition switch as well. Especially the older ones with the pin prongs sticking out get oxidized and just cleaning them is not always dependable.
Several tips to remember before you begin:
If you don’t want to waste your time, just drill the two holding bolts out from the top. The top part of the bracket has no treads.
It may be difficult to take the top part of the holding bracket without breaking the tiny clear plastic years of the air bag assembly. You can use your old top bracket as it is.
When you try to put the cover back together, cut your wheal 90 degrees to the left and then the bottom cover will slide in place very easy.
The wholes for the ignition switch have no treads. Just tighten the screws in and they will snug real good with the soft metal inside the wholes.
And finally, if it ain’t broken don’t try to fix it!
Now, see how to fix (DIY) the Ignition Switch and replaced the Ignition Key Cylinder and Assembly on our 1999 Volvo V70? Use one of these helpful tutorials depending on your Volvo model. We’ve made copies of them on our website in case they get lost in the forums:
Also a much necessary price quotes and dealer / part store review:
Volvo of Chattanooga
$99 initial diagnostics (if you can get your car towed to them)
$301 ignition cylinder
$1100 ignition column
Volvo of Knoxville (800) 346-8762
$200 ignition cylinder plus $356 labor
Nalley’s Volvo in Atlanta (800) 671-3174 had surprisingly reasonable prices and a very, very helpful part/service adviser, which no other Volvo dealership seemed to offer.
Dayer Volvo of Atlanta (888) 593-3772 gave a quote on parts and repair in the range of $700-900. When I asked for a bit more specific number I was told $840. Seriously? Guess when I’ll go there for a repair – like NEVER. Thumbs down plus BEWARE!
Taska Parts was also recommended on some forums as a cheaper alternative. They order from Volvo and quoted me $230 for the ignition cylinder but after calling and asking 3 times I was still not clear if I am getting just the key cylinder or the whole assembly.
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Mar 17, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
Wow and I thought I was loyal about advertising products. Been thinking about getting a tat on my back with “ourVOLVO.com. But now I’m not sure, because THEY say these things are contagious. But when I think about it, who are “they” anyways. I’m going for it. Stay turned. I think I got the courage …
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jan 30, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
So a few hours after our purchase of this great 1999 Volvo V 70 and a few hours before we could even get it on our insurance, you guessed it . . . it began to hail out of nowhere. All of the sudden a black cloud covers the town and then dumps buckets full of marble sized hail on our pristine condition car.
So what do we do?? We run out in the middle of the storm. Take the cover off of our Classic 89 Honda CRX and go and protect the Volvo, what any other loving owner would do. We risked our lives to save another. Nobody was hurt in this attempt, although we do suggest to NOT ATTEMPT THIS ON YOUR OWN. We are trained professionals for all we have a website ourvolvo.com
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jan 25, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
This post deals with detecting problems in your ETM (Electronic Throttle Module) manufactured by Magneti Marelli (Fiat) for Volvo between 1999 and 2001.
A few years back, VOLVO denied the problem and did NOT recall the part, but extended the warranty to 10 years or 200, 000 miles (whichever comes first). So, in most cases you are out of luck for the warranty. Don Willson at VEXEDvolvo.org has put a list of all affected Volvo models as follows:
White label means your ETM is original and has not been replaced by Volvo and/or the previous owner
All Volvo dealers we contacted were aware of the problem. They all said it could be fixed for around $1,000 after a mandatory two-hour inspection at the dealership at a cost of $89 per hour (Volvo of Chattanooga), $99 per hour (Clayton Volvo of Knoxville) or $105 per hour (Dyer & Dyer Volvo of Chamblee, GA).
However, generally Volvo dealers put the same model ETM part during repair, which causes the same problem after a while. You can purchase the same part manufactured in Canada with already preloaded software and the necessary warranty at: xemodex.com (Thanks for the recommendation by Don Willson at VEXEDvolvo.org)
Apparently, you can get the ETM for your Volvo from any online auto-part store located in Europe even cheaper, but you will need Volvo to load the software on it, which they most probably will not do for you. At least, not for free, judging from their prices above.
You can watch the video bellow of a Volvo with ETM problem and use the following PDF chart to diagnose your ETM. (Chart courtesy of Chris at xemodex.com – Thank you!)
A very, very special “Thank You!” goes also to Rob from VolvoTips.com, who helped us with our engine’s condition remotely.
Chris has shared a video of a Volvo with ETM problem on YouTube. He said that Volvo dealer
“just cleaned the throttle body and upgraded software which reduces the sensitivity of the light but only really masks the problem, I’m living with it as the light only comes on for 5 miles out of every 50-100 now. Should have pushed harder for a replacement but its too late…”
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jan 20, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
Well I tried! I couldn’t get the radio working and it said OFF when turned on.
So I call “my local Volvo dealer” :). And ask for the Volvo radio code. It was either that or bringing it to their service department which charge $105 per hour. So I got the code for the radio for MY VOLVO after giving them the VIN number.
So now you are asking well, how did you get the radio to display “CODE” instead of “OFF” so you can even enter the code they just gave you. And I’m glad you asked.
STEP 1: Leave the key in the ignition in position I (one – with the door open in case it locks on you)
STEP 2: Wait for 2 – 2 1/2 hours
STEP 3: Enter CORRECT code – you have 3 tries or it will lock again. You know you have entered incorrect code when it displays EEEEE.
So I enter the code the dealer gave me that is associated with my VIN number and I get EEEEE 3 times and it locks. Hummm…. So I called back the Volvo Dealer of Memphis who were exceptionally nice again and they tell me how to pull out my radio and get the serial number and part number so they can give me the correct code because it appeared the radio had been changed.
After taking the radio out (by pushing in the 2 little handles on the sides which pop out) I see that it is a remanufactured part and they give me the correct code. I wait 2 1/2 more hours, enter the code and I’m good to go listening to the Music in The Air. I love that song.
Again, THANK YOU VOLVO OF MEMPHIS. Your service department was extra kind and helpful.
Posted by OurVolvo.com on Jan 15, 2012 in 1999 Volvo V70
Detecting a problem with the brake lights on 1999 Volvo V 70 Classic (North American Edition) is easy, especially with the help of our friends at http://www.volvotips.com/
If your light bulbs and fuse are OK, the problem is most probably the self adjustable brake light switch located at the top of your brake pedal. The problem in 99% of cases is there and not in your relay. BTW on the North American Classic model the relay is NOT in the trunk compartment (neither left nor right side, since they are empty) but behind your radio. Start messing with the relay ONLY if you are sure, the problem is not in the (1) fuse, (2) bulbs or (3) the switch.
The brake light switch on the 1999 Volvo V 70 is a fairly simple device fabricated by Volvo to activate your brake light when the pedal is pressed and deactivates when the pedal is not pressed, in which position the pedal and the switch actually touch.
The most probable reasons why your switch is failing, is the small white cylinder which provides the adjustable part of the switch. Often, if you press on the pedal with one hand, you can adjust the white adjustable cylinder with your other hand for a (temporary) fix.
In most cases, however, the small tracks on which the white cylindrical adjuster moves ware out and cannot be restored. The safest thing to do is order a new one at about $40-50 at any auto part store. We got ours at Advanced Auto Parts which has always been helpful in diagnosing our problems. The replacement of the switch is shown on the following picture (and yes, it is possible to remove the switch without breaking it):
It is also possible to take the switch apart. In our situation, the switch had started to fuse together at the two metal points which provide the actual contact for the electric circuit. Yes, you could brush it and clean it to be reused, but do you really want to do that at the risk of your brake lights not working (which BTW is illegal to drive with in North America).
(2) If it is NOT the ignition switch, you will need to order the whole ignition assembly, which comes with the “coded” key ignition cylinder inserted into the bracket which attaches around the shaft behind your steering wheel. Don’t waste more time, find your VIN number and call to order Volvo part # 8626325 for $225 (+10S&H + Tax) from:
The brake light switch on the 1999 Volvo V 70 is a fairly simple device fabricated by Volvo to activate your brake light when the pedal is pressed and deactivates when the pedal is not pressed, in which position the pedal and the switch actually touch.
